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Food for Life gives practical
advice to anyone concerned about the state of the nation's school meals...
Jeanette Orrey - the dinner
lady
Food for Life gives practical advice to anyone concerned about the state of
the nation's school meals...
In response to the scandalously poor state of school meals, lack of food education
and increase in diet-related health problems the Soil Association has developed
a UK-wide Food for Life programme.
Developed with the help of Jeannette Orrey, author of The Dinner Lady, the
programme puts the nutritional needs of children first. It advocates sourcing
fresh ingredients from the local area with a preference for organic ingredients
where possible. The amount of processed food should be kept to a minimum to
ensure fresh and nutritious produce is used and that salt, sugar and harmful
additives are minimised, and hydrogenated fats are excluded.
Most children these days simply don’t connect with the food they eat.
Food for Life aims to help them understand the links between what they eat and
the world they live in through classroom activities, farm visits, growing projects,
cooking classes and healthy eating lessons.
Food for Life offers information and practical support for parents, school
communities, councils and caterers who wish to improve their catering arrangements,
and work towards the targets using a 'whole school' approach. Want to do something
about your school’s meals? Download our Food
for Life pack.
Jeanette Orrey- the dinner lady
Jeanette Orrey was catering manager at St Peter's Primary school, Nottinghamshire
and the Soil Association school meals adviser. Six years ago she set out to
create delicious, nutritious school dinners by ditching processed junk food
and using plenty of fresh, wholesome ingredients - organic where possible. Not
only did the kids grow to love their new healthy menus but her efforts also
attracted the interest of Jamie Oliver, who went on to make a hard-hitting TV
series on school dinners that shocked the nation.
How did you eat in your childhood?
The family ate together. I’ve always felt that my passion for good food
stems from those meals and conversations round the kitchen table. Most of the
ingredients were home-grown so I got used to the best from an early age.
How did you become a dinner lady?
When I got married at 18, I enrolled in cookery classes. I was so keen that
I carried on. I wanted a job that would fit in with our three boys so I started
as a dinner lady in 1989. That’s when my journey began. Three years later
I became cook-supervisor at St Peter’s.
What was the food like in schools?
When compulsory competitive tendering hit us in 1996, the council walked into
our kitchens and took out our equipment. They also reduced our hours and introduced
pre-prepared food. The potatoes arrived preserved in a slimy whitening agent
with a chemical smell we could not wash off. When we cooked with the frozen
mince, the stench was awful. Packets full of sugar, salt and E numbers replaced
our home-made puddings. They called this ‘best value’ but it really
meant the cheapest. We were told it was more cost-effective to stuff kids with
artificial junk. All I knew was that the children were paying the price.
How did school meals improve?
St Peter’s head, David Maddison, understood how demoralised we were.
“If you think you can go it alone, Jeanette, I will support you.”
My chance came in 2000 with new legislation which enabled the school to opt
out. The dinner ladies team talked through every detail: our vision was to use
nothing but fresh food.
How did you manage?
I had more buying power than I had dreamed possible. We had been paying 35p
for ingredients per child. Now I could afford 70p per head, twice the national
average and still make a profit because we didn’t need to pay a whole
tier of management. I wanted to put beef back on the menu but, post-BSE, I had
to know exactly where the meat came from. That’s what started me sourcing
straight from the farmers. We live in a farming village so I know quite a few.
I got in my car and found farmers who would supply us for 38 weeks a year. Some
of the meat was from rare breeds and some organic, and when they cooked it,
my ladies in the kitchen noticed the difference in quality and taste.
How did you get into organic food?
I got talking about to Charles and Jennifer Holt who run the local post office
and village shop. They are both big in organic food and the more I listened,
the more sense organic made. I learnt how supermarkets reject ‘outgrades’,
healthy veg that is not perfect looking. I thought, why not purchase seasonal
vegetables from local and organic farms? So I got back into my car and started
another search.
How did the Food for Life project to improve school meals come about?
When St Peter’s was a joint Local Food Initiative winner in the Soil
Association Organic Food Awards 2002, David and I went to London, my first visit
– aged 46! That’s how I met Lizzie Vann again. Food campaigner and
founder of Organix, the children’s food company, Lizzie had contacted
me before when she first heard about St Peter’s. This time we stayed in
touch, and from our shared passion to improve food in schools, and with the
support of Simon Brenman from the Soil Association, Food for Life was born.
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